For this face-off I am comparing the Bearly Art precision glue and the Scotch advanced tape gun for card making. Yes, these products can be used for various projects but they are both heavily marketed for paper crafts. While I have done videos in the past on the advanced tape gun and raved about it, it does have some drawbacks too. This trial was the second time using the Bearly Art precision glue, the first time was an emergency puzzle patch which worked well. There is nothing worse than pulling out puzzle pieces and the piece splits between the top and bottom layer.
Anyway, let’s discuss what makes a good paper crafting adhesive rather than just voting if each product is sufficient or not. The goal is for two pieces to stick together, but honestly the expectations are way higher. Next on the importance scale is to have a product that does not seep through the layers. No gross residue that is sticky or shiny when it seeps over the side. Then there is the “drys clear” glue that drys clear but you can literally still see it. If there is a mistake can it be removed or will the project have to be restarted? Odor is a big concern as well because if it smells after it is applied then it is a major drawback. Lastly, does it cover intricate areas? View the pros and cons list below to see which will work best for your paper crafting needs.
Scotch Advanced Tape Gun
-One Application Size (hard to get in small areas)
When looking at machines one of the things I expected to learn how to sell was patches. That was of course before knowing anything about patches and the process honestly seemed pretty intimidating. Plus there are not many tutorials out there for creating machine embroidery patches. There are the patches that you have the border for and ones that free float. Due to the complexity of a bordered patch I decided it would be more useful to try a free float. What I mean by free float is simply that the patch is made on an alternate material that will be trimmed to size. For this type of patch I used felt since it is a webbed fiber meaning it will not fray when it is cut. Perhaps in the future I will try my hand at creating a bordered patch that is not 100% file form created to test further, but for now I hope you enjoy this first time video and find it helpful for your own projects.
Tips for Creating a Patch
Felt Material: Won’t fray
Stabilizer: Rip away or Cut Away for back and use water stabilizer for the front if using letters to keep threads from getting buried
Trim or Rip off stabilizer as close as you can without cutting stitches
Heat and Bond shiny side down on the back of embroidery
Use heat press or iron for about 10-15 seconds. I like to iron in small circles since it starts to smell like burning plastic (perhaps turning down the iron would also help) peel when cold
Cut around felt with fabric scissors
Admire patch and iron onto desired project
Random Machine Embroidery Tip:
Use a Report folder with sheet protected pages of designs with sizes to help choose projects as well as see what designs you have
Journal with steps and colors if there is a trace layer or not, also what colors you like
Don’t rip apart the hoop! Always unscrew or it will eventually break the screw mechanism which is why this is my second hoop.
In this blistery drizzly season, I thought it would be fun to show the process of creating the latest Bob sticker. For those that do not know already, Bob is my support hippo and the logo for my small business Custom Little Beasties. The plan is to add these stickers to orders for purchase as well as include random ones with purchases. Currently Bob has three outfits: a King, anAstronaut and the Duckie Rain Coat. He really brings me joy so I hope that this little doodle brings a smile to your face as well. In the video below is the speed up process I used in Procreate to create his rainy day look. If you enjoyed this time-lapse drawing, please let me know. Also, what other outfits should I create for Bob ?
Yet another thing I wish I knew prior to starting embroidery is that ability to adjust the machine’s tension. Embroidery machines have two different tensions to set and each one will vary from machine to machine. For instance, just because I have my tensions set to a certain number does not mean it will have the same effect for another machine. My biggest piece of advice when it comes to adjusting the tension is to take a deep breath, grab a relaxing tea or cocoa, take out a notebook and realize that it will take awhile.
There are two types of tension; the top dial with numbers on it which controls the upper thread and the bobbin tension which controls the bobbin thread. Prior to reading the manual I thought there was only the top thread tension to tweak and after testing all of them the outcomes were wildly disappointing. At one point I thought about returning the machine or taking it in to be repaired. Yes, the manual is your best friend yet always the last resort at least for me anyway! Let me know if you are a manual reader out the box or “only when problems arise person” in the comments.
The bobbin tension is a lot more tedious to get to than the upper threads which is why the tutorial on this post is crucial. First the embroidery control arm must be removed, then the bobbin plate and finally you will reach the bobbin housing to change the tension. Prior to removing this embroidery control arm the machine must be turned completely off or it will pop up with a malfunction warning and require you to turn it off before allowing you to stitch anything. To make things more “fun” there are no numbers to help figure out the best tension for the bottom thread, just a tiny little screw. Also, the machine does not come with a flat head screwdriver. I used one from an eye glasses kit, you may have one laying around the house already.
In order to not go completely blind in this process I like to tighten the screw completely and then loosen it one full rotation test it and then go onto two full rotations, test it and so on. Each time I will fully tighten the screw in order to keep the process consistent. I also recommend either using a notebook or writing directly on the back of the stabilizer to indicate which rotation goes with which test letter. The goal is to not have any bobbin thread showing on the top of your work and only a small amount of the upper thread showing on the back. Too much of upper thread showing on the back can ruin a design from being stitched out properly or even make simple letters look wonky.
Above is a small example of what a difference adjusting the tension can make. Both elephants were made with upper thread tension number four. The only difference was the bobbin tension. On the first elephant you can see the outline stitching is completely off compared to the second one. I realize I should have done them both on a white backing so I apologize if it is a little difficult to see. When these were created it was not for example purposes but rather to see if the design was usable on a less obvious backing. The white example is still not 100% as the ear portion is not fully filled in and would still not be a design I would be happy selling on an item but compared to the first test it is way better.
After making a couple of items myself sewing and crochet it left me thinking about tagging the things I make. Many tags can be annoying, itchy or add to the overall item. The purpose however is to never forget where the item was purchased. Without tags people inevitably forget where they purchased the item and it can even make an item appear “cheap”. A tag is like a finishing touch which is why after researching them I decided it was time to experiment and create my own.
While you could order custom made tags from another small business or a large one I wanted to try it on my own first. They can be pricey and the idea of not having complete control over the process made me feel a bit iffy about purchasing some. Not to mention I do not believe I have gained “enough” sales to deem it appropriate to order a bunch of tags either. Since I do both sewing and crochet I wanted tags that could work for both while adding to the items rather than hindering them with a giant tag. There are many different ways to put your shop logo on items such as ribbon, fabric, leather, faux leather and more. Either way I knew I wanted something that was washable, simple and aesthetically pleasing.
Since receiving the mini stamp I starting thinking that it was around the perfect size for logo labels. However, it is not as simple as stamping the item itself, it would have to be on another medium. Also, upon brainstorming I started to question if this would simply be a mock up as stamp ink, I assumed, would wash out. After realizing I did not like the look of white ribbon labels I decided to work with what I had that was close to faux leather, faux suede by Cricut. The Cricut part is important since the material is only slightly thicker than paper. Plus if it worked it would mean that I could use the Cricut machine to cut out multiple tags for me because the holes are a bit of a pain to cut/stab out by hand. I am happy to report that diy was successful and I will be making many more in the future! The mini stamp accident has turned out to be one of my favorite small shop items. The only disclaimer I want to give is that the ink I used was the one from No Issue that came with the stamp. I am not sure if that is why the ink stayed on or if other stamp inks would also have a similar result. Watch the tutorial below to see how I created my first label and the tests I put it through.
Graphic design has always had a spot in my heart which is why I have always wanted a custom made rubber stamp. Yes, you can print any graphic but there is something about a tangible stamp and ink pad that makes me feel official. It’s silly but this thing has been in my wish list for several occasions so I am happy to finally have one. For Christmas I received this one from my sister and at first I was honestly a bit disappointed because it is so small. Originally I had wanted the larger custom stamp but now that I have the mini I am pleasantly surprised at how useful it is. Although I do have the larger edition in the mail as well I am so excited to finally test out No Issues stamps.
Below is the unboxing in an asmr style and then after I discuss my full review. While I did give an impromptu review in the video I wanted to go a little more in depth here. First, the reason I chose No Issue was I had started following several small shops and noticed many of them use the brand for stamps. Most of the stamps from the small shops did seem a big basic in design though so I was hesitant if it would turn out well or be a flop. It turned out amazing! The details are so sharp which is surprising as the stamp is so small yet legible. One thing I was skeptical on was the additional handle: since it is rather tiny it seemed laughable. After using the stamp a couple of times though I have realized that the rod is an added luxury that allows a full view for placement, so there are no mishaps. On another note I am beyond grateful that the rod comes off for storing so that it is not difficult to organize.
Although I really enjoy the stamp quality the ink pad is a different story. Yes, the ink quality itself seems superb to other ink brands but the packaging/ container of the ink itself was a big disappointment. The pad does not have any type of securing system the acrylic just sits on top of each other. This causes the container to flop open unless it is laying flat. A floppy container thus creates a high chance of the ink pad drying out. Over time I guess we will see if it causes a problem. As of now I can only speculate that it will only be a matter of time. With that said I have decided to keep the packaging so that the cardboard can create a more proper seal for the ink while being stored. If anyone knows why so many ink pad companies don’t more manufacture proper ink pad containers I would appreciate it. I do not understand why they are more so floppy and loose when others lock or click shut. As that is the only concern I have I am really happy with the product and company thus far and am looking forward to experimenting with various uses.
New Years is often referred to as a time to reset: goals, expectations, habits and also to get organized. One part of getting organized is to clean my shoes which is why I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to share an update on my KURU shoes. Yes, I did do an initial review but now that it has been about two years I thought it would be helpful to show how they have held up thus far. The reason I am only highlighting the Roam pair is because they have been my go-to pair. Since these are my daily shoes they are also extremely dirty which is why I am showing how/if they can be saved. In other words will they be yard shoes or continued daily wear shoes. Currently they are an eye sore so I am hoping they can be revived to an almost new appearance in the best case scenario.
Physically the structure of the shoes are good, they still provide arch support as they did when they were new. The two main “issues” which are honestly mostly user created flaws encompass the part of the shoe that you put on and off. In the first review I mentioned that the sides of the leather were rubbing off near the top part of the shoes which has gotten a little worse. The other issue is the back of the shoe has been defected from putting on and off my shoes by simply stepping into them instead of putting them on properly. This caused the back of the heel to get smooshed making it feel weird when walking at times. To see this issue on the shoe watch the video below and I will point it out. Both of these issues are not necessarily the shoes fault, however, I have yet to have a heel get crushed like these did.
Also in this video is an in-depth cleaning of these shoes with a little asmr too. There are three methods I use to clean white shoes so hopefully they help someone else revive their icky shoes too. I personally believe that all three of them combined create the best results when your shoes are to the point of looking like yard shoes. However, if you clean them monthly using a simple baby wipe should be enough to get them back to looking presentable.
Cleaning Steps
Water Based Baby Wipes
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser
White Mixture: Water, Baking Soda and Tooth Paste
Shoe Lace Cleaning Tips
When it comes to cleaning shoes often people throw out the laces and buy new ones which never measure up to the original ones. Instead of simply throwing them in the washing machine try this hack instead. Fill up the bathroom sink with enough water to cover the laces. Sprinkle baking soda and soap into the water. Swirl around the mixture and let them soak for about 20 minutes. Rinse and hang them up to dry.
For the holidays I had a lot of content planned and per usual they fell short. I could say I was too busy, however that was not the case. For some reason my mind gets stuck on certain projects and it is hard for me to pivot before they are 100% complete. Bouncing back and fourth has never been a strong suit of mine and is something I need to work on.
So… instead of creating a half hearted holiday post, I wanted to share a project I actually worked on for a Christmas gift this year. Although I cannot share the pattern with you as it is not my own and not available online, I thought it would be fun to watch me work through the project in a sort of time lapsed video with some holiday instrumental music. I tend to like watching people work on projects this time of year so hopefully you all will too.
Crochet is a new hobby I have picked up and am just now starting to fall completely in love with it. If you have been wanting to pick up a new craft I highly recommend crochet, it’s relaxing and fun to create something out of a little ball of yarn. Plus, unlike machine embroidery it is something that can be done anywhere and travels easily. No inconveniencing the house with loud noises of machines either. Yes, it can be frustrating to try new crafts but it is also part of the fun of learning new ways to be creative. There are so many stitches and I am by no means an expert, so go easy on me if you do crochet as I am still very much a newbie.
Did you make any Christmas gifts this year? If so I’d love to hear all about them.
The fall weather has finally hit California which means its sweater weather. On dreary days we still take out the pups to walk as long as it is not a major down pour. After getting ready for our first sprinkling walk, my little nephew literally shook off his coat. In other words, he went without as it would have been more of a hinderance than anything else. Once the walk was over I wanted to fix his little jacket since hopefully there will be more dreary walks in this desert this season.
First, I want to preference that he is a size medium according to his weight, but sometimes the medium seems like a joke with the size jump from the small. It’s like Goldilocks: one’s too small, one’s too big, except in this case there is not a just right option. Auntie to the rescue! Time to put those crafty powers to work and make some alterations.
This is an extremely basic tailoring project that you can do with a basic sewing machine or even sew by hand during a Christmas movie. Materials needed are velcro, pins, needle and thread. A tape measure can be used however, keep in mind to leave room for two fingers. Also if you are more experienced you could cut and move the straps entirely but I did not want to alter the entirety of the coat. Follow the tutorial below to see how I altered the coat without any major construction changes.
A little over a year ago I unboxed my first embroidery machine and have been sharing my frustrations ever since. Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE my embroidery machine. I am simply stating that now I finally feel that I have somewhat mastered the machine. The first few times I used the machine I was nervous to do basically anything but now it’s more of an after thought / fun to create.
When I first opened the machine I searched for tutorials and there were not that many that actually showed how to use the machine. This is something I really wanted to change because it can be hard to simply learn through trial and error or understand the instructional booklet. So, when I was asked for guidance on some starter tasks with the machine I knew it was something I wished had been there for me.
Below is a video of mini starter tutorials that are straight through. I hate fluff in between when I am looking for guidance; which is why I hope it will be beneficially for beginners or even people who are just interested in learning more about machine embroidery. Since the fluff is out of the video here is some fluff or more background.
The first tutorial is how to change the needle which can be intimidating. Things to consider are that you have the correct size for the machine used, and it has to be screwed on, not too loose or too tight. Only tighten until the bar with the screw is no longer able to be pushed up. Second is how to thread the machine’s upper thread. Incorrect threading can cause the needle to break so make sure each step is correct. In the tutorial I mention that I am not a fan of the stoppers that come with the machine. The stoppers in the past have caused the thread to catch and thus snap the needle in pieces. Last is the bobbin which can mess up the outcome of the embroidery stitches if it is not installed properly. I’ve talked about it in another video but that small silver piece is so important! Make sure it clicks because if is does not it will break off the thread, bunch up stitches or even break the needle.
MaddieAutumn 